Monday, October 13, 2008

FRENCH JACKET DAY 1



I arrived in St Louis Monday morning about 10 am. Our first task was to have Susan check the fit of our muslins which would later become the pattern. I knew I had a slight problem in the back thanks to the previous picture. This was corrected by adding a center back seam. This was the perfect adjustment for my curvy backside and I will use this trick again. Some jackets had center back seams others did not depending on curve or flatness of the back. Susan also thought I needed more shaping to the jacket and really nipped in the waist and made the armsyce smaller and higher for tighter fit in the sleeve. This proved to be a problem and when I got home I ended up taking my sleeves out because they were too tight! There were a few other slight ajustments that ended up making a big difference in the overall fit. It was easy to tell that Susan has done this many times and had a very good eye for all details of the fit. We then marked all the adjustments on the muslin with tracing paper and cut the 1" seam allowances off the muslin. The muslin pattern pieces looked so small now and it was strange to see a pattern piece without a seam allowance. Couture relies on stitching lines instead of cutting lines and I loved this way of doing it. It was much more accurate and of course more labor intensive but worth every minute spent.

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