COPY CAT JACKET

is finished.  I saw this Coach jacket and loved the pocket treatment, lining and the cuffs.  I had to have it and couldn't find it anywhere.  So what's a girl to do? Well, if she sews- she makes it.  I used Simplicity 2810, which I definitely will use again.  The instructions were fairly good and it was well drafted.  I think it ran a little bigger than other Simplicity patterns I have used recently.  I cut a size 10 and tapered to a 12 in the hip area, whereas I usually need a 14.  I purchases all fabrics from Denver Fabrics and was very pleased with my purchase.  Although the jacket will be dry cleaned I hand washed the fabrics prior to construction to pretreat.  The cuffs are detachable so that I can just wash them separately without cleaning the jacket.  I used Petersham to trim the pockets and the jacket cuff.

Regrets, I have a few.  I shortened the jacket by about 1" and I  wish instead I had lengthened it about an inch.  I also shortened the sleeves- I always do and the sleeves are a bit short but thanks to the cuff you really don't notice.  Because the jacket is shorter than the inspiration jacket and since I am only 5'3" I had to forget the upper pockets.  That made me sad- I really like that detail.  I may experiment later with additional pockets but I just don't think there is enough of me to pull it off.   I also wish I had used more traditional tailoring techniques, like taping the the front edge.

Now, it is on to finishing up my Chanel jacket.

OH SO CLOSE

to completing my copy cat jacket. Yesterday I received the black and white silk charmeuse lining and the white silk for the pocket and cuff trim. This was another purchase from Denver fabrics with which I was very pleased. Today I cut out and sewed the lining and made the pockets. I have also decided that I am going to make the white cuffs removable so I can wash it when necessary and not have to take the jacket to the cleaner every time the cuff is dirty. About 2:30 I took a break and went to the mailbox and discovered that my buttons from Britex had arrived. Perfect timing! I was at the point that I needed the buttons before I could go to the next step. I would like to think that i can finish this project up tomorrow. i am starting to run out of time before our trip next month. And of course I must finish this jacket to take with me because I don't have a thing to wear!

TEST TWO

was importing, organizing and posting photos. So far it seems like everything I do is just a little easier on the Mac. This is a photo of the navy fabric I ordered from Denver Fabrics and my inspiration jacket. Coach did the same jacket for spring in different colors. This enabled me to zoom in and really see the details on the jacket and add a couple of new details to my jacket. I am very excited about the way this project is going. Now I am just waiting on the lining and the buttons to arrive.

PLEASANTLY SURPRIZED

with my online fabric purchase from Denver Fabrics. After the previous discussions regarding purchasing fabric online I was a bit nervous about the order I placed with Denver Fabrics. But when my fabric a light weight wool hopsack arrived I was very pleased. I am going to use Simplcity 2810 and make a tailored jacket taking inspiration from a Coach jacket from the new Poppy line. And thanks to Nancy K's recent post I am going to use the techniques she referenced for the lapels. And for some reason I am having trouble with USB port so I can't post the picture. That's just one more thing to add to the always present "to do list". I want to finish this jacket and the Chanel jacket by the end of the month.

I'M DISAPPOINTED

in this skirt. I made this in the fall, wore it once and didn't like the way it fit. I have made this pattern before so I was surprised that the fit was not right. I took it apart and took it up about 1 1/2 inches. I wore it again and at the end of the day it was huge! I inherited the fabric from my mother's stash and I thought it was 100% wool but apparently it is not or it wouldn't be stretching out like it is. So what appeared to be a winner turns out to be a wadder. I'll take out the zipper and remove the petersham on the waist and throw it away. Oh well, it just reminds me of the importance of knowing the fabric content.

SEWING IF ONLYS

Overall it was a pretty good year for sewing. I didn't think I made that much until I went back over my list and was surprised to discover that I made the following in 2009:

3 Dresses
2 Pants
1 jeans
6 skirts
11 tops
4 jackets
1 coat for Grace and 1 purse

There were 5 items that stand out as sewing if onlys- that is if only everything I made turned out to be as satisfactory as these items I would be a very happy girl. But after 45 plus years of sewing I am realistic - it just ain't gonna happen.

My first if only is a pair of jeans from Vogue 1034. It is a Sandra Betzina pattern and not only do I love the fit but since jeans are a important wardrobe staple and I have major difficulty buying a pair I like they are on top of my list. Next time I make them I will change a few things but they are definitely on The List for 2010.

Next up is a pair of black wool pants I made for the ASG competition. I had not made pants in years because I could not perfect the fit. I bought this tightly woven, textured wool in Paris with the intent of making a coat but somehow it became pants and I think they will be a long wearing classic. I initially used Simplicity 2938 but after the competition was over I redrafted them using a pair of ready made pants that I cut apart and a self-drafted sloper. I just hope when I am ready to make them again I can figure out what I did!

Then using a knit that I bought on sale several years ago I made Vogue 2980, another Sandra Betzina pattern. This top fit like a charm and went together in an afternoon. That alone is enough to make me love it but it is a perfect top for my style - simple and classic but with a little touch of drama. Not only is it on the The List 2010 but at the top of the list. (My photo does not do this top justice.)

The number 4 if only was inspired by a picture in the Oct/Nov 2009 issue of Vogue Patterns. This wool tartan has been in my stash for over 20 years just waiting to take life!. Yes, I know it is only a straight skirt with a pleat but it is so on trend and I felt good wearing it. And I don't think I could have found a more perfect belt. This is another self drafted pattern and rather than use a petersham waist treatment I used a waistband - something I haven't done in ages and I liked it for a change. It gave my waist more definition.

And my last item is a Cynthia Steffe pattern for Vogue, number 1151. It is made in a charcoal ponte knit from Joanns and is another on trend item to jazz up my sometimes boring wardrobe. When I saw Erica B's version I knew I had to have it too. (I have decided that Erica should be my personal stylist.) This dress is not only comfortable but a bit sexy and that combination is rare. I wore this dress Christmas Day and cooked dinner then cleaned the kitchen and still felt good about how I looked. Possibly I'll make it in navy for summer.

Now that I think about it and survey my closet I wish everything, not just the garments I made but those that I purchased as well met the same criteria as these 5 pieces. And since one of my ongoing goals is to simplify everything about my life, including my wardrobe, I wish I had a formula to insure these results. So in 2010 I will keep working towards that end- a much leaner closet filled with clothing options that I love to wear, fit perfectly, make me feel great and are appropriate for my lifestyle.

THE STOCKINGS ARE HUNG

Last year Grace fell in love with my Christmas stocking. It is a simple off white satin with lace trim around the top. I then put several rhinestone pins, vintage and new, on the stocking to dress it up. Jim's stocking I made from black velvet and vintage ties, along with an initialed tie tac. They look rather nice on our fireplace and Grace thought she should have one too. And of course I thought so as well and I promised her I would make her one for this year.

During the month of December we like to give her a few small gifts throughout the month. This way she can enjoy each gift and not be overwhelmed with so many things at once. Saturday after her party she spied the two packages under the tree and knew they were for her. She opened her stocking first and was so excited. She really was thrilled and kept saying it was beautiful. She especially liked the pearls and the the fluer-de-lis pin. (She is very interested in all things French! Some little girls want to go to Disney World- Grace wants to go to Paris!)

I REALLY WASN'T GOING TO DO THIS

but it was like I was back in junior high andjust because everyone else had one I wanted one too. In junior high it was a tent dress and a bench coat, today it is a maxi dress. I don't think I'll get much wear out of a maxi dress but I loved Erica's and so I decided I'd just throw caution to the wind and live large. And the best part, I did it all for $6.00 and a few hours! I found this cute lycra knit at Joann's for $3.00 a yard and used super easy McCalls pattern 5039. I envision wearing my maxi dress at home for casual dinners on the patio or when we go to a friend's. And it will be nice to just slip on at the end of the day when I want something comfortable but I'm not ready for my pajamas. I made it by a size 12 and the only alteration was to lengthen the bodice 1 1/2".

POCKET RESTYLE

My jeans are almost finished- all I have to do is sew on the pockets. When I pinned the original pocket on the jeans to determine the placement I realized how big the pockets were. So I started looking at my other jeans and saw that those pockets were a good inch shorter and instead of being a rectangle they tapered 1/2 inch in on each side. So I decided to remake them using the pockets of the ready made jeans as a quide. This was a good reminder to be more observant of garment details and save myself a little time by not remaking things.

NEVER A SECOND LOOK

That's right. Had it not been for Erica B. I never would have looked twice at Simplicity 2756 but when I saw her version I knew I had to have it. For me, actually seeing a garment made and on a real body is a big incentive for reading sewing blogs. This fabric has been in my fabric closet for many years. It is a cotton blend of some kind. It is soft and loosely woven with a nice drape. It is like an eyelet except that there is a sheer weave inside the flowers. I like the casual ease of this blouse and what I can I say except that I'm a girl that likes a belt. This one belonged to my mother, is at least 20 years old but I think it has a modern feel. So thank you Erica for your inspiration and if you don't mind I'd like to call this my Erica blouse.

SEWING FOR OTHERS

There are many ways I enjoy spending my free time, reading, hiking, playing with Grace, scrapbooking but nothing satisfies my creative spirit like sewing. The problem was that I didn't need a single thing. I would make some wonderful new item and it would hang in my closet with all the rest of my seldom worn creations. One day a friend was talking about needing to go through her fabric stash. I have no idea why but I blurted out that I would take anything she had that was suitable for childrens clothes AND that I would make clothes for the children in a small inner city church in the Nashville area. But I'm so glad that I did because I can honestly say that I don't know when I have enjoyed a sewing project more than these little clothes made from donated fabric. It feels so good to do something for someone else and I'm thinking I may have just found the perfect way to use my talents to serve others. I'll be back in Nashville in December and plan to have lots more made by then.

ASG CREATIVITY CONTEST

Back in Feb I was on the ASG site and noticed the contest info for 2009. I have never entered a sewing contest but I thought, why not. I decided to enter the category Most Interesting Wardrobe Concept. My wardrobe consisted of seven pieces for a my perfect travel wardrobe. I also wanted it to be economical and eco-friendly, which meant I would use fabrics from the stash and remake some existing pieces. My total cost was less tha $50.00. ( I don't know why I think there is no cost involved when the fabric comes off the shelf in my sewing room as opposed to the shelf in the store!?) My wardobe was not chosen for final judging byt that's okay. I love the pieces I made, they will serve me well and I enjoyed the process. It was interesting to look at the completed pieces and try to see what they would say about me to someone who did not know me. I sent in photos, fabric swatches and my concept info. My project was not chosen for the next round of judging but that's okay - I'm happy with it anyway. And I want to share it here.

The jacket is Simplicity 2977. I lengthened it, added a back pleat and made the front edge straight instead of curved. I added a lining in lime green silk and applied it by hand. The leather trim is from an old pair of leather pants and instead of buttons I used magnetic snaps which are inside the fabric.

I used view A of Simp 2938 which is a dress to make 2 skirts, one in denim and one in a wool knit. I used an invisible zipper in the denim and a hand picked embellished zipper in the knit. In the knit I did a petersham waist and a facing in the denim. I also used this pattern for black wool crepe pants.

The cream wool knit top, Simp 2977, was fabric from a cape. I love this top and will definitely make it again. It is a very flattering style and a great fit. I did not make any changes to this design.

The cotton lace top is Simp 2925. The lace is over a balck cotton batiste and the neck bank is satin. The lace and the batiste were made separatly to create more movement in the fabrics. I used french seams and a hand picked zipper.

View B of Simp 2988 is a white cotton top. I moved the zipper to the front trimmed it and the neckline in the green silk. I also added sleeves. This piece is a more seasonal piece whereas the others adapt easily to different seasons with accessory changes.

RESTYLING A CLASSIC

This jacket has been in my closet for at least 10 years and I have always enjoyed wearing it. The fabric is a wool boucle in a warm cream color. I put it on the other day and realized that the medium sized shoulder pads needed an update so once I finish my pants I am planning to take the shoulder pads out and scale down the sleeves and shoulders and then I hope to wear it another 10 years. It will go nicely with the winter white wool pants. For the spring we are having, sadly wool will be perfect.

COCO PLEASE MEET ROBERTO

I recently finished the blouse for my Chanel style jacket. I used McCalls 4591, a favorite I have made several times. It is cut on the bias so it is very easy but has a great fit. The blouse fabric is a Roberto Cavalli silk and is also used for the jacket lining. I used french seams on the side seams and shoulder seams and hand overcast the sleeve. One of the things I love about this pattern besides the ease of sewing and the great fit is that the inside looks as nice as the outside.

PANTS SLOPER

These are the pictures of the pants sloper that I used the first time around. After cutting up a pair of pants that fit I realized that the only problem with the sloper was the crotch length. I adjusted that according to the ready made fit and have almost completed the first pair of pants. A few minor adjustments the next time and I think I'll have a good fitting pair of pants.

SLOPER DISAPPOINTMENT

I could not wait to make up a pair of pants from my newly drafted sloper. I was so pleased with the dress I did last year I was sure the pants would be equally as wonderful but they were pretty bad. So I went back to the drawing board Sunday night and took apart an older pair of slacks that had a good fit. Imagine my surprise when I laid the pants pieces on the muslin and discovered that with the exception of the crotch length they were an exact match! I was sure it was my crotch I measured???but there was a two inch difference. So this weekend I am going to try it again using the pants I took apart. I am so convinced this is going to work I am skipping the muslin and going straight to winter white that has been in the stash quite a long time. I also hope to figure out my new camera software so I can post some pictures.

MY FRENCH JACKET!!!

Well, here it is and it only took 3 months. (I didn't actually work on it for 3 months straight, it just feels that way.) After 120 hours of sewing I quit counting hours and started counting procedures- 10 buttons, 4 pockets, 6 sleeves. Yes, 6 sleeves- although the classic french jacket armhole is a tight, high fit I wasn't happy with the comfort and ease until I put the sleeves in for a third time. That meant taking the sleeves and the lining out twice and since they are both put in by hand it was a time consuming task. After sewing on 10 buttons I decided I liked it better without the buttons. I also liked three pockets better than four. Besides actual sewing time there were many uncounted hours spent searching for the perfect buttons and trims, a process made more difficult because there are so few resources besides the web. After a trial and error process of various trim combinations I decided on a bugle bead trim inserted at the edge of the jacket and three stands of a pink cashmere yarn overlaid with a black figure 8 trim.

Overall, I am happy with the finished product and although I would lkie to make another one someday it won't be anytime soon! With the completion of this jacket three of the five fabrics I bought in Paris are now hanging in my closet instead of laying in my sewing room. That feels good!

One of my next projects will be to make a blouse out of the remaining lining fabric which Susan tells me is Roberto Cavalli and a very nice compliment to Chanel.

A HANDPICKED ZIPPER AND A PETERSHAM WAIST!

What am I talking about? Well, if you sew you know. One of the pieces of fabric that I bought in Paris was this Pierre Cardin animal print/plaid wool. I loved the fabric when I first saw it and then when I discovered that on the reverse side of the animal print was plaid it was a MUST HAVE! I knew exactly how I wanted to make it to showcase both sides. Whenever I wear it people stop me and tell me how great it. It is so nice to have a garment that I have made and put time and thought into to be appreciated.

The handpicked zipper and petersham waist are techniques that I learned in Susan's couture sewing class. The zipper is put in by hand and the petersham waist uses petersham ribbon instead of a facing or a waistband. I love both techniques and the petersham waist works especially well for my bodytype.

In the selvedge of the fabric was the designer's name so I made myself a little lable to sew onto the ribbon. I have enough of the fabric left to make a hat.

FIRST SEWING PROJECT OF 2009

I have been planning to make a Tooth Fairy pillow for Grace for quite awhile now. And since she has 4 loose teeth I decided I'd better get with it. Instead of a pillow I made a little quilted wallhanging that she can hang on the door. what is the going rate for a tooth these days?